How to Build Cornhole Boards: Complete DIY Plans and Instructions

Updated July 2026

You can build a pair of full-size cornhole boards with two 24-by-48-inch plywood tops, a framed base under each board, folding rear legs and a centered 6-inch hole.

This guide explains the complete process, including the materials, cut list, measurements, assembly order, leg setup, sanding and finish. The project requires accurate measuring and safe use of saws, drills and sanders.

Players who prefer a finished product can compare regulation cornhole boards. This article is focused strictly on building your own boards rather than reviewing or ranking products.

Quick Answer: Regulation Cornhole Board Measurements

Board feature	Measurement
Playing-surface length	48 inches
Playing-surface width	24 inches
Hole diameter	6 inches
Hole center from top edge	9 inches
Hole center from either side	12 inches
Front playing-surface height	3 to 4 inches
Rear playing-surface height	12 inches
Board spacing during play	27 feet, front edge to front edge

The official American Cornhole Organization rules specify a hardwood-plywood playing surface between 47.5 and 48 inches long and between 23.5 and 24 inches wide. The hole is 6 inches in diameter, centered from side to side and centered 9 inches from the top edge. The front is 3 to 4 inches high, and the rear is 12 inches high.

League requirements can change. Check the current ACL rules and regulations and the rules of the specific tournament before describing a homemade board as league approved or certified.

DIY Cornhole Board Materials

The following list builds two boards.

Wood

• Two 24-by-48-inch pieces of 1/2-inch hardwood plywood
• Four 48-inch 2-by-4 side rails
• Four 21-inch 2-by-4 end rails
• Two 21-inch 2-by-4 center braces
• Four approximately 12-inch 2-by-4 leg blanks

A nominal 2-by-4 typically measures approximately 1.5 by 3.5 inches. Placing the 3.5-inch dimension vertically beneath a 1/2-inch top creates an approximately 4-inch front playing-surface height.

The ACO rules permit a minimum 1/2-inch playing surface when cross-section backing is used. This plan therefore includes one center brace beneath each 1/2-inch top.

Hardware and supplies

• Exterior-rated wood glue
• Approximately forty 2 1/2-inch exterior wood screws
• Four 3/8-inch carriage bolts, approximately 3 1/2 inches long
• Eight 3/8-inch flat washers
• Four 3/8-inch locknuts or wing nuts
• Wood filler
• 80-, 120- and 180- or 220-grit sandpaper
• Primer, paint, polyurethane or another compatible finish
• Painter’s tape and clean cloths

Tools

• Tape measure
• Carpenter’s square
• Pencil
• Circular saw, table saw or track saw
• Jigsaw or 6-inch hole saw
• Drill and drill bits
• Countersink bit
• Clamps
• Orbital sander or sanding block
• Compass or 6-inch circle template
• Safety glasses
• Hearing protection
• Appropriate dust control or respiratory protection

DIY Cornhole Board Cut List

Part	Quantity	Finished size
Plywood playing top	2	24 × 48 × 1/2 inches
Long side rail	4	48 inches
End rail	4	21 inches
Center brace	2	21 inches
Folding leg blank	4	Start near 12 inches and trim to final height

The 21-inch end pieces fit between two 1.5-inch-thick side rails:

24 inches − 1.5 inches − 1.5 inches = 21 inches.

Measure the actual lumber before cutting. Dimensional lumber can vary slightly, and the plywood top should align cleanly with the completed frame.

Woodworking Safety

Woodworking equipment can cause serious injuries when tools are used incorrectly or without their guards. Wood dust and finishing chemicals can also affect the skin and respiratory system. Review the OSHA woodworking hazards and solutions before beginning the project.

• Read and follow every tool manufacturer’s instructions.
• Keep guards and safety devices installed and functioning.
• Wear eye protection while cutting, drilling and sanding.
• Use hearing protection around loud tools.
• Support large plywood sheets so they cannot shift or bind the blade.
• Clamp workpieces rather than holding small pieces near a moving blade.
• Disconnect power before changing blades, bits or making adjustments.
• Use dust collection and adequate ventilation.
• Follow all label directions for adhesives, paints and finishes.
• Do not use a tool or perform a cut that exceeds your training or experience.

OSHA identifies machine contact, kickback, flying material, excessive noise, wood dust and finishing chemicals among the principal woodworking hazards.

Step 1: Cut and Inspect the Playing Tops

Cut two plywood pieces to exactly 24 by 48 inches, or purchase pre-cut panels when accurate cuts are not available at home.

Before assembly:

• Check each panel for warping.
• Choose the smoother face as the playing surface.
• Inspect for voids, splinters and damaged corners.
• Confirm that the panel is square by measuring both diagonals.

The two diagonal measurements should match. A noticeably out-of-square top will make it difficult to align the frame and can cause the boards to sit unevenly.

Step 2: Cut the Frame Pieces

For each board, cut:

• Two 48-inch side rails
• Two 21-inch end rails
• One 21-inch center brace

Place the frame pieces beneath the plywood before fastening them. The outside dimensions should be approximately 24 by 48 inches, matching the playing top.

Mark the crown or natural curve of each board, when visible. Orienting similar pieces consistently can make assembly easier.

Step 3: Assemble Each Frame

Lay the two 48-inch side rails parallel on a flat surface. Place one 21-inch end rail between them at each end.

1. Confirm that the frame measures 24 by 48 inches.
2. Check both diagonals to confirm the frame is square.
3. Clamp the pieces in place.
4. Predrill the screw holes to reduce splitting.
5. Apply exterior-rated wood glue to the joints.
6. Fasten each joint with two appropriate exterior screws.

Install the 21-inch center brace midway between the top and bottom end rails. Predrill, glue and screw it through the side rails.

The brace supports the 1/2-inch plywood and helps reduce bounce and flex.

Step 4: Attach the Plywood Top

Place the plywood top on the completed frame with its best face upward. Align all four edges.

1. Clamp the top to the frame.
2. Mark screw positions around the perimeter and along the center brace.
3. Keep screws a safe distance from plywood edges.
4. Predrill and countersink the holes.
5. Apply a continuous, controlled bead of wood glue to the frame.
6. Fasten the top without driving screw heads below the surrounding surface excessively.

Space the screws consistently, generally every 8 to 12 inches around the frame and along the center brace.

Remove squeezed-out glue before it cures. Fill the countersunk screw holes only after confirming that the board is square and stable.

Step 5: Mark the Cornhole

The hole is 6 inches in diameter.

To locate its center:

1. Measure 12 inches from either side edge.
2. Measure 9 inches down from the top edge.
3. Mark the intersection.
4. Use a compass set to a 3-inch radius to draw the circle.

Measure twice before cutting. The center point—not the upper edge of the circle—is 9 inches from the top.

Step 6: Cut the 6-Inch Hole

Using a jigsaw

1. Clamp and support the board.
2. Drill a starter hole just inside the marked circle.
3. Insert the jigsaw blade.
4. Cut slowly along the inside of the line.
5. Keep the saw base flat against the playing surface.
6. Sand to the final line after cutting.

Using a hole saw or router jig

A properly sized hole saw or router circle jig may produce a more consistent circle, but these tools require appropriate setup and experience. Follow the tool manufacturer’s safety instructions.

Sand the entire inner edge until it is smooth and free of splinters. The hole should not have a sharp lip that can damage bags.

Step 7: Prepare the Folding Legs

Leg geometry varies slightly based on bolt position, lumber dimensions and the angle of the finished board. Start with four leg blanks approximately 12 inches long and trim them after test fitting.

For each leg:

1. Mark a rounded end using a compass or a suitable round template.
2. Cut and sand the rounded end.
3. Mark the pivot hole at the center of the rounded end.
4. Drill the bolt hole accurately and square to the leg.

The rounded end allows the leg to rotate inside the frame.

Step 8: Drill the Leg-Pivot Holes

Position one leg inside the upper rear corner of the board frame. Leave enough clearance for the leg to rotate without binding against the top or end rail.

1. Clamp the leg in its intended position.
2. Use the leg hole to transfer the pivot location to the frame.
3. Drill through the side rail.
4. Insert the carriage bolt with washers.
5. Tighten the nut enough to remove excess movement while allowing the leg to fold.

Repeat on the other side, keeping both pivot points at the same height and distance from the rear edge.

Step 9: Set the Rear Height

Place the board on a flat surface with the legs extended. Measure vertically from the floor to the top of the playing surface at the rear edge.

The target rear height is 12 inches.

Trim the bottom of each leg gradually until:

• The rear playing surface is 12 inches high.
• Both legs contact the floor evenly.
• The board does not rock.
• The legs fold fully inside the frame.

The bottom cut will usually be angled because the leg meets the floor while the board is sloped. Mark the angle while the board is standing at its final height rather than estimating it in advance.

Step 10: Verify the Front Height and Board Angle

Measure from the floor to the upper playing surface at the front edge. The ACO range is 3 to 4 inches.

A frame made from vertically oriented 2-by-4 lumber with a 1/2-inch top will measure approximately 4 inches at the front before accounting for minor material variation.

Verify:

• Front height
• Rear height
• Side-to-side level at the front
• Side-to-side level at the rear
• Leg stability
• Matching dimensions between both boards

Step 11: Fill Screw Holes and Imperfections

Apply a compatible wood filler to countersunk screw heads, small voids and surface imperfections.

Do not use filler to disguise major structural defects, severe warping or loose joints. Replace damaged material when it could affect safety or play.

Allow the filler to cure according to its instructions before sanding.

Step 12: Sand the Boards

A smooth, consistent surface is essential because rough spots, raised grain and finish defects can change bag movement.

A common sanding progression is:

1. 80 grit for rough edges and significant imperfections
2. 120 grit for general smoothing
3. 180 or 220 grit before finishing

Sand:

• The full playing surface
• All outside edges
• The inside edge of the hole
• The frame
• The legs
• Filled screw holes

Remove all sanding dust before applying finish. Airborne wood dust can affect the eyes and respiratory system, and excessive exposure presents recognized health hazards. Use suitable dust collection and ventilation.

Step 13: Paint, Stain or Decorate the Boards

You may leave the wood clear, stain it, paint it or add a custom design.

For best results:

• Use products compatible with the plywood and final clear coat.
• Follow all ventilation and protective-equipment instructions.
• Allow each layer to cure before applying the next.
• Avoid thick ridges, raised decals and uneven paint boundaries.
• Keep important artwork away from the hole and edges.

Only reproduce logos, artwork and photographs that you own or have permission to use. Players who want a professionally produced personalized set can compare custom cornhole boards.

Step 14: Apply the Playing-Surface Finish

The playing surface should be smooth enough for bags to slide, but it should not be so slick that bags slide back down the board under normal conditions. That balance is also reflected in the ACO board rules.

Use a finish compatible with the underlying paint or stain. Apply several thin, even coats rather than one heavy coat.

Between coats:

1. Allow the finish to cure as directed.
2. Lightly sand only when the product instructions recommend it.
3. Remove all dust.
4. Apply the next thin coat evenly.

Do not add household polish, silicone spray, powder or another surface-altering substance to make the boards faster. The ACO rules prohibit foreign substances such as furniture polish, talc and silicone sprays on the playing surface during play.

Step 15: Allow the Finish to Cure

Dry-to-touch and fully cured are not the same. Playing on the boards too early can leave bag impressions, cause sticking or damage the finish.

Follow the finish manufacturer’s full cure time before stacking, transporting or playing on the boards.

When storing two boards face to face, use clean separators or a carrying system that prevents the finished surfaces from rubbing together.

Final DIY Cornhole Board Inspection

Before playing, confirm:

• Both tops are approximately 24 by 48 inches.
• Each hole is 6 inches in diameter.
• Each hole center is 9 inches from the top and 12 inches from either side.
• The front playing surface is 3 to 4 inches high.
• The rear playing surface is 12 inches high.
• The boards do not rock.
• The legs open and fold safely.
• No screw heads protrude.
• The hole and outside edges are smooth.
• The playing surfaces are free of drips, ridges and loose debris.
• The two boards play consistently with one another.

DIY Cornhole Board Plans vs. Purchased Boards

Consideration	Build your own	Purchase finished boards
Customization	Full control over materials and design	Depends on available products and options
Tools	Requires appropriate woodworking tools	No construction tools required
Time	Cutting, assembly, sanding and curing	Limited to ordering and delivery
Consistency	Depends on measurements and workmanship	Depends on manufacturer quality control
League certification	Regulation dimensions do not create certification	Must still be verified by exact product
Repairability	Builder knows the construction details	May include manufacturer support or warranty

Building your own boards can be rewarding, but regulation dimensions and league certification are not the same. A homemade board may follow published measurements without being formally certified for a particular league or event.

Shoppers who do not want to complete the woodworking and finishing process can browse all cornhole boards or compare full-size regulation cornhole boards.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should cornhole boards be?

A full-size playing surface is approximately 24 inches wide by 48 inches long. The ACO permits a range of 23.5 to 24 inches wide and 47.5 to 48 inches long.

How large is the hole in a cornhole board?

The hole is 6 inches in diameter. Its center is 9 inches from the top edge and centered 12 inches from either side on a 24-inch-wide board.

How tall should the back of a cornhole board be?

The top of the rear playing surface should be 12 inches above the ground.

How tall should the front be?

The ACO specifies a front playing-surface height between 3 and 4 inches.

Can I use 1/2-inch plywood?

The ACO permits a minimum 1/2-inch playing surface when cross-section backing is used. This plan includes a center brace beneath each top.

Can I use 3/4-inch plywood?

A 3/4-inch top can reduce flex, but it adds weight and changes the front height when placed on a conventional vertical 2-by-4 frame. Adjust the frame design so the final board still meets the desired front and rear measurements.

Should cornhole boards be slippery?

The surface should allow a properly thrown bag to slide, but it should not be so slick that bags slide back down the board. Finish choice, curing, humidity and bag fabric all affect play.

How far apart are cornhole boards?

Position regulation boards 27 feet apart, measured from front edge to front edge.

Do homemade boards count as league-certified boards?

Not automatically. Following published dimensions does not create league certification. Check the current rules and equipment requirements for the applicable organization and event.

What bags should I use with DIY boards?

Browse all cornhole bags for recreational and competitive choices. Players preparing for sanctioned competition should verify the exact bag series and league approval separately.

Final Recommendation

The most important parts of a DIY cornhole board build are accurate dimensions, a square and rigid frame, a properly positioned 6-inch hole, stable folding legs and a smooth, consistent finish.

Build both boards at the same time and compare measurements throughout the project. Small inconsistencies in height, hole placement, frame rigidity or finish can cause the two boards to play differently.

After the boards have fully cured, pair them with an appropriate set of cornhole bags and add cornhole accessories such as a scoreboard, lights or carrying equipment when needed.